The close-planted 1.5m block on the Tiers vineyard is now twenty years old and is clearly hitting its straps. In the early days, an element was missing in the spotty-labelled 1.5m Chardonnay wines that reminds us what vine age does to concentration and complexity. But now? Things are different.
Green gold colours are unmistakeably ‘Tiers’ in character. It’s youthful, with a vanilla banana lift over a palate of fig, nuts, peach, nectarine and even a little golden honey. It’s linear, in a medium-bodied way, but still subtly powerful in its way – refined, never hard, just the right amount of modern whipped butter winemaking and white fruits and a pristine palate. It is way too young but rather perfect in its crisp starched linen and white nectarine mode, and ultimately so drinkable. So drinkable. I had to stop myself from emptying my glass; it was so perfect. Excellent wine.
Best drinking: already great. 18.7/20, 95/100. 12.5%, $90. Tapanappa website. Would I buy it? Yes.
