Recognition

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What I needed for my £20 was a wine with lowish tannins, a nice bit of acidity and intriguing flavours that come and go in the glass.

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And third, to the cool Fleurieu Peninsula in South Australia, where Brian Croser, one of Australia’s greatest wine visionaries, planted pinot noir eight years ago and has conjured Burgundian subtlety from the young vines. It’s worth the £20-plus premium.