I looked at this over the course of 48 hours, by accident rather than by design, and I much preferred it with a bit of air in it. It’s driven by limey acidity and while its quality is clear from the outset, it really comes into its own once its pear flavours are allowed to reach full voice, and its sweet-spicy oak settles in, and its tinned peach characters reach an equal pitch to the lime-like notes. It’s then a glorious chardonnay, flavoursome and refreshing, long and sophisticated, full of run and yet measured and controlled at the same time.
95+ points
