The Adelaide Hills 2023 vintage was the coolest of the four consecutive cool vintages since 2020. To quote winemaker, Brian Croser, the ’23 Chardonnays are far from “overt.” I find that re-assuring, the vintage speaks and it’s beautifully fine with purity of fruit and acidity layered naturally, succinctly, making 1.5m poised for further ageing. Meyer lemon, lemon drop, nectarine, peach aromas with a hint of cashew – in other words an alluring introduction.Still incredibly youthful, offers a core of perfectly pitched citrus and stone fruits in balance and concentrated. Textural, too, as it comes together with nougat and roasted nuts joining fruit and gently spiced oak. Everything is in place. The only question remaining: to drink now, or not.
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