There are few more committed or driven people in the Australian wine industry than Brian Croser.
From the time he released the beautiful pristine rieslings under his Petaluma label back in the late seventies to his more recent focus on what he calls “Distinguished Sites” he has been focused on continuous improvement and refinement. You don’t get an AO if you do things in half measures.
And that more recent focus started in 2002 when he founded Tapanappa with vineyards in the Adelaide Hills, then Wrattonbully, well to the south near Coonawarra, and the Southern Fleurieu.
In each case he has chosen varieties that fit with site and region – chardonnay from the Tiers vineyard in the Adelaide Hills, predominantly Bordeaux varieties from the Whalebone Vineyard in Wrattonbully and pinot noir from the Foggy Hill vineyard in the Fleurieu.
For much of his 50-plus year involvement in Australian wine, Croser has been one of the most revered and respected winemakers, with an influence that has spread far beyond his own labels, largely as a result of his rigorous and demanding attention to detail in both the vineyard and the winery.
And these days, although Tapanappa is managed by husband and wife Xavier Bizot and Lucy Croser, the son-in-law and daughter of Brian and Ann, Croser himself is still at the helm of winemaking and viticultural decision making. You wouldn’t expect anything less.
The focus in this week’s column is the chardonnays that come from Tapanappa in the Adelaide Hills. I have tasted these wines over many vintages and always they are wines that combine texture, delicacy and expressive fruit with a linear focus and palate length, capturing site and season. Sounds cliched, but that is would I get and why I look forward each year to seeing the latest iteration.
In fact, while site is the key driver, I have always been fascinated by the subtle differences from season to season, where viticulture and winemaking have been designed to capture and highlight the virtues and subtle differences of the years.
The chardonnay wines are from the 2024 vintage, a very good year, and slightly warmer than the 2023. In each case, the winemaking was pretty much the same with the Tiers vineyard chardonnay getting a couple of extra months in oak. So, the subtle differences are a result of clone and vineyard.
The Piccadilly Valley chardonnay is separate from the Tiers wines in that the fruit comes from three other vineyards in the Piccadilly Valley. However, the strength of this region for Australian chardonnay is clearly evident with the class of this wine.
The Tiers 1.5m wine was created in 2003 when a small section of the original vineyard was close planted with French Bernard Clones, resulting in slightly earlier ripening. It was decided in 2015 to create a separate wine from this vineyard rather than being blended into the Tiers chardonnay.
At the top of the tree is the Tiers Vineyard chardonnay a wine that captures power and layered complexity that is the essence of the site.
The wines have just been released and are well worth checking out.
Tapanappa Piccadilly Valley chardonnay 2024 ($60)
From a cool vintage, although not as cool as the ’23. This is a delightful chardonnay from the Piccadilly Valley with a vibrant freshness and energy which is complemented by the subtle stone fruit characters. Fine savoury notes with lemony chalky characters that balanced the beautifully pristine fruit. The finish is dry and slightly savoury. The flavour profile through the palate is long and sustained.
Score: 94/100 Cellar: 8 years
Tapanappa Tiers 1.5m chardonnay 2024 ($90)
The close spaces planting of this part of the Tiers vineyard imparts a slightly different flavour and textural feel to the chardonnays from the old Tiers plantings. Intense aromas of tropical fruits, brioche and spices. The palate is ripe and textured although the chalky acid and light citrus edge hold the definition and line through to the long finish. Supremely balanced with the oak and fruit integration seamless and refined. Excellent wine.
Score: 96/100 Cellar: 12 years
Tapanappa Tiers Vineyard chardonnay 2024 ($110)
This has to rank up there with the best of the Tiers Vineyard chardies yet released. It was an ever so slightly warmer vintage than the previous and this is reflected in the depth and fruit concentration expressed with relative opulence. Lots of nectarine, and cashew with a spicy pear edge to it. The fine chalky acid really holds the tension ensuring a defined and exceptionally long finish. A dry savoury and tight subtle astringency on the finish provides the final flourish to an outstanding wine.
Score: 97/100 Cellar: 12 years
