Subtle woodsmoke, Mirabelle jelly, wet loam and ripe lemon on the nose make for a dramatic and complex opening. The palate is immediately concentrated, a perfect calibration of creaminess and citric verve, all delivered with a super-fluid, smooth mouthfeel and super-charged, linear freshness. There is something urgent, something deeply refreshing and direct about the lemon purity of this wine, yet all is couched in such sleekness that it is entirely harmonious. Beautiful, vivid and memorable.
96 points