What a stunning wine this is. It is made from fruit grown on the now 51-year-old Whalebone Vineyard on the Limestone Coast that was identified decades ago by wine industry veteran Brian Croser as “a distinguished site” capable of producing elegant and age-worth reds. It is a classic Bordeaux blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc given an Australian twist with the addition of shiraz. From a “model vintage”, this a wine of impressive balance and finesse. French oak barriques (50% new) play key support role in a wine led by cassis flavours and spice that will doubtless age gracefully, but it is already extremely appealing. Only 2,000 cases were made. A steak and kidney casserole proved a wonderful foil. $90.
Although the nose shows a hint of maturity, the plum/blackberry fruit is impressively fresh. This exceptional wine is certainly an Australian Pomerol, and the powdery tannins interact seamlessly with the intense flavour.
5 stars
The ripe blackcurrant and mulberry aromatics carry a hint of leaf and subtle oak. An impressively long palate carries the fine, savoury tannins with ease. Cellar ten years at least.
Pale and crystal bright lemon hue. Dried papaya, grapefruit pith and yellow floral aromatics. Good intensity of lime fruit, hints of tropical lift and a seaspray minerality. There’s a textural element that suggests sweetness but the ample acidity and astutely built phenolics balance it out well. Lovely length and stays intense to the finish.
94 Points
The punchy, youthful single-vineyard 2024 Chardonnay 1.5M is sure to impress with its combination of raw power and subtlety. Waves of peach skin and nectarine aromas are complemented by white flowers and a creamy cashew nut complexity. Compact and surprisingly dense and forceful, its strong oak presence provides definition to some more tropical nuances. Long, strong, serious and sure to age well. The 2024 wraps up with an incredibly long finish, although the oak does need time to settle.
95 Points
The more sophisticated and reserved 2024 Chardonnay Tiers is a little shy and tightly coiled right now, offering up pristine aromas of melon and pear topped by fine oatmeal tones and spicy oak, with just a touch of smoky reduction. This is superbly balanced, unforced and seamless, holding its power in reserve. The 2024 builds beautifully with layered complexity as it meanders through to a long, fine finish punctuated by chalky grip.
96 Points
What a sheer privilege it was to taste this Tapanappa Whalebone Vineyard blend 2015 alongside the new 2021 release. Brian Croser is releasing a small quantity of the 2015s and its pure class is obvious. Better still, what a thrilling opportunity it is to check out where this wine has come from and where it has the potential to go.
The fruit parcels were fermented separately before seeing 20 months in French oak barriques (50% new, balance one year old). The final blend was 69/31 Merlot and Cabernet Franc.
An incredibly captivating wine, it continued to evolve fabulously the longer it was open. Scents of pine needles, wild mushrooms and sauteed mushrooms made an initial first impression with licorice and choc mint pattie. Blackberries come with the territory, its presence and shape are absolutely sublime. Dried herbs and the faint flicker of cola park themselves in the distance. It’s a wine that strides out and has a cool feel about its carry. Defined elegance and dangerously smooth, it slides about with ease in stealth mode. Silky, powdery and emery board like tannins leave a trail of consideration in their wake.
A wine of elevated sophistication, it will live for many years yet.
Drink to ten years+
96/100
This Tapanappa Whalebone Vineyard Cabernets Merlot Franc 2021 is a slightly different blend to the 2015 that it was tasted alongside. What a treat it was to capture the past alongside the current release. This is an excellent wine – some may say it’s Australia’s answer to the right bank.
It is always great to see where a wine comes from and where it is headed, and the privilege of tasting the back vintage 2015 is not lost on me.
While the vineyard has evolved in that time, no doubt, so too have some slight tweaks in the winemaking.
A blend of Cabernet, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Shiraz (53.5/16/16/14.5), it opens with a clenched fist tension. Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon material, gee, it found its groove over a few days of tasting. Longevity is certainly in its veins, something that is clearly apparent in the 2015. From a cooler year, I do love Brian Croser’s detailed vintage heat summation – the 2021 vintage delivered 1468C days which is down on the 1480C average. This is a silky, fleet-footed and delicately poised blend that saw French oak barriques for 18 months, 50% of which were new.
The addition of Shiraz adds to the structure and backbone – that was quite obvious in the comparison. Black fruits, dark cherries, dark chocolate, licorice and some mint tucks in behind a facade. Drying, black tea adds interest along with a flurry of dried herbs. The palate is drenched with flavour yet it is not heavy-handed nor weighty. The well-handled acidity will keep this true for many years yet.
A composed and fascinating wine, this Whalebone Vineyard is without doubt the best of Wrattonbully.
Drink to fifteen years+
A blend of 53/16/16/15% Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot/Cabernet Franc/Shiraz. Matured in 50% new French barriques for 18 months. A wine that is as vivid as the imagery of the whale skeleton found buried beneath the vineyard. Fresh figs, boysenberry and Chinese bayberry. Tea, rose bud, goji and pomegranate molasses. There is a heart of red fruit with surrounding coffee and mocha spice. The palate is a weaving thread of silky tannins; Xavier has such talent for texture and expansion of a wine’s length and dimension. A wine that reverberates throughout your whole body.
96 Points
Brian Croser has made the decision to re-release this wine from what was a coolish vintage, not dissimilar to the 2021. It’s a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. And even after 10 years, it’s bright with energy and life coursing through its fine, balanced structure. Has a nice red fruit character, with touches of blackcurrant and cherry, along with a mulberry-like character that seems fairly typical. The tannins are fine, and the palate seamlessly integrated and balanced. This is a classy wine, that even after 10 years, has plenty more in the tank.
96 Points
As always, the opportunity to source a wine already matured by the producers is an opportunity which should not be ignored. This is a blend of 69% Merlot and 31% Cabernet Franc, each variety made separately before the final step of blending. Maturation was in French oak barriques, half of which were new, for twenty months. The result is rather exciting. Under cork. A crimson garnet colour, there is both good maturity and complexity here. The nose exhibits notes of red fruits, bay leaves, truffles, dried herbs, plum pudding, leather, smoked meats and mulberries. A sleek and supple texture, there is fine acidity, good balance and impeccable length. Quite a subtle style, but this in no way suggests it is lacking flavour. An exquisite red which still has a good decade ahead of it.
96 Points
2021 was a cracking vintage in the Wrattonbully region – the home of this famous vineyard. The blend is 53.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc and 14.5% Shiraz. Each variety was treated discreetly, seeing eighteen months maturation in French oak barriques, half of which were new, before blending. Under cork, 2,000 cases were made. A dark blood red colour, the nose offers a range of aromas with dried herbs, delicatessen meats, cherries and a character which is a little like raspberry jam on toast. The oak is beautifully integrated with just a flick still evident. There are fine tannins, plenty of them but they simply melt. Attractively balanced, there is very good length and pleasing freshness. A delicious red, certain to drink impressively for the next ten to fifteen years.
94 Points
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