After losing control of Petaluma Wines to Lion Nathan (now Lion Co) early this century, founder Brian Croser established Tapanappa Wines, based on existing vineyards in the Piccadilly Valley (Adelaide Hills) and Wrattonbully, near Coonawarra. In 2003, Croser planted a pinot vineyard at Parawa, “the highest point of the Fleurieu Peninsula halfway between Victoria Harbour and Cape Jervis”, he writes. Eleven years and several vintages later, the vineyard at last produced a pinot of stunning quality, revealing the unique power, elegance, firm-but-fine structure, and earthy richness of this great variety.