“A burst of flavour” – 95 Points | Stuart Robinson | The Vinsomniac – Tapanappa Foggy Hill ‘Definitus’ Pinot Noir 2021

Author: Stuart Robinson
Source: The Vinsomniac
Review Date: Feb 2024

On the occasion of the twentieth anniversary of the establishment of the Foggy Hill vineyard, winemaker Brian Croser – accompanied by wife Ann – embarked on a series of tasting and dinners to celebrate this milestone.

Whilst the Definitus wasn’t part of that tasting, opportunity afforded to review it post. The Definitus is akin to a block level wine, the Definitus strip being a sub-ridge formed where ferruginuous sandstone comes close to the surface. It also marks a delineation between two rows of two Bernard Clones (115 and 117, planted in 2003). Winemaker code for: “I think I’ve something rather special here”.

A darker manifestation, of blackberry with some Rosella like relief. Slightly sapid hints, not whole bunch, of depth and intensity. 

A delicacy on entry, a light hand, seemingly at odds with the darker elements that introduce the wine. A burst of flavour that reminds of the pop of aromatic from a freshly pierced orange skin – atypical Pinot in my frame if reference, but there nonetheless. 

Through the finish a pop of cassis like brilliance, bright and prime with a long tail of flavour through fine and persistent tannins. At turns it feels youthful, yet with a position that suggests longevity. 

95 Points

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