I must admit, I was sceptical. A $45 pinot noir from the Fleurieu Peninsula – it sounds absurd. OK, so industry leader Brian Croser is behind it and he’s unlikely to engage in folly. But all things considered – well, I certainly wasn’t expecting what the bottle delivered. This is an interesting wine. It’s light in colour and rather light in flavour too, its appearance murky – as good pinot noir often is. In the glass it takes a while to come around, its flavours building as it sits and breathes. It’s then a tannic, chalky, charismatic wine, its ripples of sap, stalk, dark cherry and eucalypt kissed neatly by integrated cedary oak. It lacks the finish to demand high points – but given four or five years in the bottle, it may well develop in that area too. I wouldn’t put anything past this wine – it seems to have a fair whack of goodies tucked up its sleeve. Drink: 2012-2017. 92 points.