Brian Croser’s 2013 chardonnay delivers the rich, ripe, peachy varietal flavours of the warm vintage. Although Croser fermented then matured the wine for 10 months in oak barrels (30 per cent of them new), Tapanappa stands apart from many contemporary barrel-fermented chardonnay styles. Missing are the sulphur compounds that season so many others, and the flavours associated with the secondary malolactic fermentation, which Croser blocks. His approach leaves ripe varietal flavour at the centre, lifted by fresh natural acidity and coated with the sensuous texture derived from the time in barrel.
5 stars
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