Certain politicians like to use the word “un-Australian” in a derogatory sense. I’ll use it here in a very positive way. May Australian chardonnays are driven by fruit at the expense of complexity. Relatively few combine those two key aspects of wine in the way the best whites of Burgundy do. This one does. The nose is restrained and minerally in the manner of Corton Charlemagne. The palate delivers sheer joy to the chardonnay lover. It tastes more of the ground in which the grapes were grown, rather than peach or melon, or other common descriptors. Yet it’s intense and long, and positively swallows its oak. The acid has some of the steeliness of Corton Charlemagne. This is brilliant wine that will improve further.
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