Bright and effortless | 18/20 | Andrew Graham – Foggy Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir 2021

Author: Andrew Graham
Source: Australian Wine Review
Review Date: Jul 2022

It’s been another rough week here at Graham HQ, which means another noticeable lack of bottles opened. The wine sample department doth spilleth over, now extending from cupboard to a stack of boxes in the kitchen. Anyway, this is the correct way to ease back into it – the strong new release Tapanappa Foggy Hill Pinot Noir 2021.

As ever, I can’t get enough of Brian Croser’s stats, and here they point out that this ’21 comes from a slightly cooler vintage (1330 HDD vs 1331 HDD). More HDD measurements! Every vineyard! GIVE US THE STATS. Seriously, there is a story to be told about every great wine – and it starts with numbers. Speaking of, this Pinot spends 10 months in 1/3rd new oak. Final wine TA 5.9g/L, pH 3.53.

A great balance between bright ruby and structure here, which is important for the Fleurieu Pinot (that previously has looked dry reddish). There is a layer of oak sweetness on the nose, but you don’t taste it. Important. Lucid red fruit is the star here – bright and effortless. On the palate, you can see the lower alcohol, with more energy, some lovely strawberry fruit that feels like it’s still unfurling – tight buttoned. Delicacy, a bit uptight, good tannic grip too. A pleasure to be had both now, as a lightly framed yet persistent and serious style, with more to come next year. I like it, even if it took a while to open out.

Best drinking: probably next year. Would I buy it? Definitely worth a bottle.

18/20, 93/100

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