Brian Croser raised a few eyebrows with his inaugural 2007 Foggy Hill, sourced from a region barely associated with top shelf Australian wine, let alone pinot noir. Then, with his follow up from 2008, Croser showed the capabilities of his special site with a wonderful release. But it’s the 2009 which has really declared the winemaking legend’s intentions of taking on Australia’s very best exponents of the closely followed genre. With the exception of some of Ashton Hills’ very best wines, I’ve never had a South Australian pinot noir so cleanly fruited, savoury, under spoken, beautifully made or astoundingly complex in its youth. Is it the future of South Australian pinot noir? I think so.