From Brian Croser’s Parawa vineyard at the southern corner of the Fleurieu Peninsula, air and sea-conditioned by the energized Southern Ocean and especially so during the cooler than average 2020 growing season, which has brought to this wine a delightfully tempered ripeness, its fruit suggestions in the blueberry zone with attractive floral top notes to begin. Further interest develops in the multitude of savoury elements that follow: umami, a subtle chariness, exotic spice senses, fennel bulb and black pepper, all the while holding onto its berry juiciness. This provides a refreshing offset to a dusting of gentle, inclusive tannins, a distinctive textural feel that holds the palate together sensitively. From nose to tail this is a beguiling and expressive wine of great style and sophistication.
98 points
