Brian Croser’s Fleurieu Peninsula Pinot has evolved quite a bit over its existence, the style reaching for more delicacy every vintage. It doesn’t always get there, but the trade-off is a wine with no shortage of power. It’s easy to overlook the subtlety with this 2019 vintage release too. The nose has a distinct Pinosity complete with a little leaf litter and loads of almost glace red fruit. On first glance I wouldn’t be upset if I called this mod-Grenache in a blind tasting with that red fruit. It’s licoricey too. There’s no confusion when you taste this – Burgundy it isn’t, more like Adelaide Hills-esque this vintage, such is the fullness through the middle. Still classy though, even if it’s not a delicate wine. Has a nice bright and long finish too, and judging on history, it’s only going to get better. Classy wine. Best drinking: now to five years easy. 18/20, 93/100. 13%, $55. Would I buy it? I’d definitely share a bottle.