Somewhat puckered peach—skin, flesh, kernel—and a sniff off that often elusive match-strike that many a Chardonnay-lover desires. There’s a wheaty, grainy edge to it also. Has a bracing, briny breeze on a beach-type thing about it, and it’s loaded with yellow stone fruit, fuzzy-skin sweetness. Iced-cracked kernel; dense and mouth-sucking. It’s almost gone and there will be no ’19 (although there is a Tiers and Tiers 1.5m). 94(95)/100, 9/10, $38 at a few Dan’s outlets.
Tim White http://www.timwhite.com.au