There’s an awful lot to be said for wine legend Brian Croser’s Tapanappa Foggy Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir. Meticulous site selection, superlative vineyard management and carefully judged winemaking have created an utterly unique expression of Australian pinot noir, which sits right at the cutting edge of South Australian interpretations of the style. One day the Foggy Hill vineyard may be to South Australian pinot noir what the Croser family’s Tiers Vineyard is to South Australian chardonnay.
Fairly restrained and elegant in its youth, this slightly brown/orange tinged yet bright red 2008 Pinot Noir reveals savoury scents of red plum and cherry fruits, with toasty cedar/vanilla oak cloaked by a clever combination of spices; clove, cinnamon and white pepper. Texturally astounding for South Australian pinot noir and deceptively deep considering its 5 year old vineyard source, its lusciously silky palate is decidedly more savoury than the nose, announcing a beautifully measured, layered expression of well composed dry earth and sour edged cherries tightly knit with fresh cedar oak. It grips nicely on the finish, extending down the palate with prickly, sandy tannins and lingering spices.
ü+ I feel like I’ve just drunk the future of South Australian pinot noir. As I mentioned previously the 2008 Tapanappa might not be the best pinot you’ll ever drink, but the potential of the young Foggy Hill vineyard is astounding. At 5 years old it’s produced a truly elegant, downright sexy wine. I’m very excited. Drink to 2015.