While some of the 2013 Adelaide Hills whites look just a little forward and flat, this Chardonnay seriously shines.
Much of that comes down to site - the Croser family's Tiers vineyard, planted to Chardonnay in 1979, has that resilience of old vineyards planted in the right place. Indeed I was there during the dry 2013 summer and the Tiers vines looked rudely healthy, even despite what was one of the warmest growing seasons on record (1317 degree days in 2013 vs the average of 1172).
Couple that perfect site with clever winemaking (I'd expect no less from Brian Croser and team) and it's of little wonder that this impresses.
The only sign of that growing season warmth I can see is a little heat on the back palate. Otherwise this is cast in a classic Tapa mode - fine grained vanilla bean oak, chewy acid and dry extract, the fruits largely in the white peach and white nectarine spectrum.
Super long for a $39 wine, the oak obvious but integrated with the whole package. A full tilt Chardonnay, no doubts about it, with everything as it should be.
Classy wine indeed.
Australian Wine Review