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Tapanappa is a joint venture between Brian Croser, Bollinger and the Cazes family (who own Lynch Bages in Bordeaux). The fruit is sourced from the Tiers vineyard in the Adelaide Hills (Croser retained ownership of the vineyard after Lion Nathan took control of Petaluma).
Exquisitely elegant and harmonious on the nose?the balance between grapefruit/nougat/white peach fruit, mealy/leesy winemaking and creamy oak is justification enough to rip the cork out of the bottle. Beautifully restrained in the mouth with determined minerally acidity and sexy, nutty oak subduing the underlying rich, sweet fruit. A very powerful wine yet so graceful and sensual as it travels down the palate to the long persistent finish which ends on a bitey citrus note. A very complex, extremely well-made wine that is, without a doubt, worth every cent. Outstanding.
Another data point for the Chardonnay trail, an unofficial series of notes on examples of this variety that have been accumulating on my blog in recent weeks.
This time it's off to Australia - the Piccadilly Valley of South Australia, to be precise. This one's from a famous vineyard, but it's a new wine. It's the first release of the Tapanappa Chardonnay (2005), which comes from Brian Croser's Tiers vineyard (pictured), which until this year was used to make Petaluma Chardonnay (and in more recent years the single-vineyard Tiers bottling).