Cool site, warm year, as Brian Croser pitches it in the accompanying letter - detailed, and insightful as ever - with the sample.
An expressly aromatic take on Pinot Noir: Chinese five spice, sandalwood, something Plum like, a touch of Goji Berry even. Exquisite, haunting, certainly captivating. Supple, lithe - certainly initially so on entry - before a slight firmness and fine grain of tannin sweeps across the palate. A persistent line of flavour carries, seemingly perpetually. Haunting - a word I wanted to introduce, save for the fact I'd already done so.
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Tapanappa News, Articles & Reviews
There have been few more influential figures in the modern history of Australian wine than Brian Croser.
“I always had the conviction that Australia’s national geographical attributes, climate and soils, its very stable temperate climate on the edge of the Great Southern Ocean, gives a climate the equivalent of 40-45 degrees North. We should be a major supplier of fine wine to the globe. We don’t have enough consumers to do it just for ourselves”
“My passion has been the right climate and the right soil, the right aspect, to get the best out of each variety”
The article is a good brief history of Brian, full of Brian-isms and the ideas that he has solidly stuck to over the past 40 years.
Note this article was published at https://www.worldoffinewine.com
Merlot makes up 44% of the wine, while cabernet franc is 56%. Always good to see franc holding sway.
When I first tasted this I thought there was too much bubble-gum oak, and for some people there probably is, but as it breathes dust and pure blackcurrant flavours burst forward as rugged, muscular tannin rumbles into place. We have a wine of swagger here, a bold wine but a vital one, with choc-mint characters aplenty along with gravel, seaweed and red licorice. It’s a wine of wealth. It takes its alcohol in its stride. It has quite a run ahead of it.
I think it was Xavier Bizot who had the idea of celebrating the fortieth anniversary of the planting of the Tiers vineyard in the Adelaide Hills in 1979.
He is the son-in-law of Brian Croser, who initially planted the vines for his nascent Petaluma wine operation. Much wine has flowed under the bridge since then, including the sale of Petaluma in 2001 to Asian brewers Lion Nathan and the establishment of the Croser family’s own Tapanappa label in the old Petaluma winery from 2015.
Note this report was also published at https://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/south-australia-2020-unforgettable
Last time I wrote about the emerging 2020 vintage I was branded ‘a denier’, ‘a dinosaur’ and ‘an angry old white man with a tin ear’, among other compliments. Let me begin this final version with a disclaimer: A hotter and drier future cannot be denied or avoided and each of us can and should do our utmost to mitigate that.
Bright and deep ruby-red colour. Loads of toasty oak and green rhubarb, eucalyptus and red licorice. Ripe red strawberries and cranberries wrestle with ambitious tannins and dried herb sinew. Tannins are chalky and ripe. It's a bit of an assault on the senses right now. Needs time and air to soften its stance
Black olive hue with red edges. So many moving parts to the bouquet: cedar, dark soy, tapenade, mixed red and black berries, oak is definitely firm. An opulent first sip; ripe blackberries and raspberries meld beautifully with licorice and softer plum notes. Time in the bottle has softened some edges. This is right in the slot - tannins in harmony. Sensational wine
Medium to light straw-yellow hue, with a dominant note of sawn-timber and cedary oak in the aroma. The palate is refreshing with abundant lemony flavour and crisp, elevated acidity, the aftertaste tangy and nervy. This needs food, the acidity is a little shrill on its own.
The 2018 Tiers Vineyard Chardonnay has won Gold at The Drinks Business 2019 International Chardonnay Masters
This continues a fantastic run, Master Chardonnay 2015, Gold 2016, Gold 2017
About the competition:
The Global Masters is a series of blind tasting competitions, drawing in entries from across the world. One of the key elements to its success is the quality and the dedication of the judges involved.
Every wine is measured on the taste of its grape and the skill of its winemaker. For the first time all preconceived ideas about the importance of location are pushed to one side as wines from across the world are judged by style and price exclusively.
The chardonnay vines on the Tiers Vineyard in the Piccadilly Valley are all now well over 30 years old though some were planted in the late 1970s. Dramatically concentrated but long and elegant. Essence of the variety. White peach and pear, chalk and honeysuckle, sweet cedarwood, toast. It all gathers and then soars through the finish. Top shelf chardonnay without a doubt. Will be better again in a year or two.