Hailing from Adelaide Hills’ oldest block of Chardonnay – which was planted in 1979 – is this outstanding white from the brilliant winemaker that is Brian Croser. Although rich in flavours, it’s light in texture, with a clean, citrusy sensation, and a surprisingly moderate 12.5% ABV. As for what you taste, it’s a moreish mix of hazelnuts, toast and ruby grapefruit, complemented by toffee popcorn and tangerine, then peach, and finally, an appealing smoky note of freshly-struck matchstick. Lingering, enlivening, but also age-worthy, this is a truly fine Chardonnay. And one I’d like to try again in five years’ time, when I imagine the delicious mature flavours of honey, dried fruit and roasted coffee would start to emerge.
