The latest Tapanappa pinot noir release from winemaking veteran Brian Croser’s Foggy Hill Vineyard – a cool site at 350 metres above sea level on the Fleurieu Peninsula – is both exquisitely balanced and scarily Burgundian. It’s a medium-bodied wine, concentrated, but with everything in place. It has dark cherry, brambly and savoury notes on the palate, some fleshy nuances and plenty of length on the finish. And, joy of joys, it is bottled under screw cap.