Brian Croser’s flagship pinot noir comes from just 10 rows of Dijon clones – 777 and 115 – planted in the Foggy Hill Vineyard on the Fleurieu Peninsula. The name might sound a bit like a spell from Harry Potter, and who among us can’t see Hermione waving her wand and yelling, “Definitus!” Who knows what the result would be, but it’s rather appropriate as the wine is indeed a little bit spellbinding. Nine months in French oak barriques, 30 percent of them new. A pale garnet/crimson. Exquisite aromas. Red cherries and blueberries intertwined. Dry herbs, a hint of chinotto and spices. At this early stage, there’s still a hint of oak evident but it’s well into the process of integration. Finely balanced, the wine shows early complexity and is seamlessly structured. A gentle but fresh acidity, impressive length, an utterly gorgeous pinot with an exciting future. Love it.