Last year’s ’06 Merlot sold out in the blink of an eye and so this year I have given the nod to the imperial Whalebone Cab/Shiraz. Fiendishly difficult to pin down, the flavour and aroma of this wine shapeshifts in the glass as you try to keep up with every intricate nuance. Lighter on its feet than one would imagine, this sensational red should last for twenty years in the bottle, but its balance is so finely tuned already that I would bet that its fans will not be able to keep their hands off it.